Monday, 21 March 2016

Kinlocheil - Kentallen via Onich ferry

We had booked a couple of days in the Holly Tree hotel in Kentallen, recommended, before going on up to Skye. I decided to do the Fort William to Oban cycle route but in two stages as our hotel was roughly mid point. We had driven up to Fort William that day so it was around 2pm before I got started. I did not want to cycle the very busy road between Fort William and Onich and opted to follow the Sustrans advice to use the other shore. Sustrans suggests getting the Camusnagaul ferry at the Crannog restaurant but this ferry was  apparently not operating yet so I went along the Mallaig road to Kinlocheil. This road was busy but was good for cycling, flat and straight. I just made sure my bright flashing rear light was functioning. It was a beautiful sunny March afternoon and the only choice was leggings or shorts but realistically it was still a bit cold for shorts particularly in the shaded sections and just as well as a cool breeze got up for the last 10 miles.
The start of Loch Eil
The initial Kinlocheil stretch is beautiful but beware of the landfill site a couple of miles along the road as the refuse lorries I met were doing some speed on the single track road. Combined with a few forestry lorries they were the only real point of wariness.
Low tide Loch Eil
The view ahead has Ben Nevis in your sight as your first goal with stunning scenery all around as you cycle alongside Loch Eil. Plenty of grey herons looking for food. An outdoor centre on the other side on the water with 6 bright red canoes. This is not a route to rush and I was stopping regularly to take it all in as well as get a few photographs. Cycling in Scotland does not get much better than this.
Good road to the Nevis range
There were a surprising number of new built housing along this side, most looking very nice indeed. There is a sense of isolation but still only 15 miles or so to Fort William.
At the end of Loch Eil the route turns southwest with great views of Ben Nevis and the town of Fort William to enjoy. This is where the other ferry would drop you off. As you can see the water was mirror calm.
Fort William

View from the hill section
You now have Loch Lhinnie on your left all the way to the ferry. There is only one short hill section as you turn inland for a couple of miles. Nice hill views for a change and a very nice country estate house. The tide was low and the estate cattle and sheep were enjoying the marine vegetation.
Inland marsh & hills

Another few miles of road and I could see the ferry at the other side so no rush. Only one other cyclist passed me heading the other way and very few cars so very enjoyable. I stopped at the wreck of a fishing boat that would do no more sailing. Hopefully it can be scrapped in some way rather than left to become a blot on the landscape.
Fishing boat no more
Even short ferry crossings make you feel on holiday and this was no exception, £8 for cars but free for foot passengers and bikes. Another cyclist joined the ferry but we had not met on the road as he had been cycling to the south around Morvern.
I knew from past experience that they were building a wide pavement for both cyclists and pedestrians from Onich to Ballachulish. It was not quite finished but I was able to use it for almost the whole section. This is a very busy and dangerous road for cyclists. The views from the bridge were fantastic and once across I now joined the old railway line which is a walking cycle path to Kentallen and my hotel. The hotel is actually the old train station with a mooring for the passenger boats.
View to Morvern from Ballachulish
I had a great day cycling with reasonable road surfaces, probably better suited to the slightly wider tyres on my hybrid that I was using than the narrower road bike. The ride is 36 miles from Fort William or 29 if you start at Kinlocheil and even shorter once the ferry is in operation. It then makes the full Oban ride a more comfortable one section route.
Sunset Kentallen
After a shower I was enjoying a beer when the light faded and for 20 minutes it was a magnificent west coast sunset, a stunning finish to a great day.


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