Kentallen - Oban Mar'16

It is day 2, early in the morning and I am already reflecting on how wise the excellent full Scottish breakfast was at the hotel.
The weather forecast is to be the same as yesterday which was excellent, but it is early in the day, the sun has not yet reached the hotel carpark so there is a significant chill in the air.
However, the breakfast consternation is nothing to do with the chill factor but more to do with the significant short but very steep climb you hit almost immediately. This stretch is the highest part of the route. Bum on seat I am pleased to be making it when I realise a locked animal gate means no option but to dismount. The hard bit is getting the bike started on the steep slope, breathing heavily I get there and at the top there is a seat with magnificent views over Loch Leven towards the Morvern peninsula. Too early for a seat but I do stop and get the camera out.

Loch Leven & Morvern

The reward for the climb is an enjoyable fast descent which stops all too soon as another gate has to be opened. These gates are a regular feature for the next few miles. The path is in good condition and the early sunshine brightens up the fields and landscape. First noticeboard of the day to stop and read.

Soon I reach the stretch where I have to use the main road for just under 2 miles. Head down I make good speed and only 2 cars overtake, both giving me a wide berth.
One warning, it is a great cycle route but there is a fair amount of crossing over and back again of the main road and for me there was some additional road cycling as the route was not at times best signposted. It looks to me as if it is better signposted coming from Oban direction.

Castle Stalker

The views continue to be stunning and I have reached a stable flat route alongside the loch where I get views of Port Appin marina and Castle Stalker. Eyes peeled scanning the coastline hoping to spot an otter but I was not to be that fortunate today. I normally only see the castle from the higher main road and a spectacular view that is, even though you quickly realise you are past anywhere to park, but it is just as scenic to have the different perspective of the seascape views today.
At this point there is the option to take a short diversion of 5-6 miles to Port Appin and the location of the Lismore Ferry. I opted out of that today but will do it in the future.

Grouse Moors on fire

On my right plumes of smoke rise high into the sky, the grouse moors are being burnt to enhance future growth. I spot an eagle circling in the thermals caused by the fires, stop and binos out yes eagle, no doubt looking for an opportunistic meal trying to escape from the flames.
The route continues roadside for a while passing by the Creagan Inn, too early for a beer. Great views now of Loch Creran and beyond. At the roundabout before you cross the Creagan bridge there is another optional detour, a loop covering 6 miles around inland Loch Creran. A bit of a climb at first then back downhill and relatively flat thereafter.

Loch Crerar

Back on the main track the route goes inland with some interesting signs about the ferns that grow here. I manage to lose the route and end up on the main road for a mile or so, eventually managing to get across to a pavement on the other side. I then pass a sign indicating to those coming from the south to turn into a track, so I had obviously missed a turning.
I was now at the Sea Life centre and checked my time to find it had taken longer than I planned and I was behind target to meet the good lady in Oban. I guess all the gates, the crossings, reading the signs and taking photos had eaten up time.

Mull from Connel bridge

Fast cycling now as I head for the Connel bridge but at one point the track just disappears without warning just before a caravan park. Landowner problems or deliberately blocked? No alternative other than to go on the road again for a couple of miles coming back onto the cycle track at Oban airport. Take some time to enjoy the views from the bridge in both directions and if the tide is in your favour the churning waters of the Falls of Lora below.
Again the route is on the now among busy and fast moving traffic on the road. At Connel I follow the poor footpath up the hill then see an opening on my left which looks like a track, not sure if I should go this way but it does avoid the road. After a short while it seems to be going inland through farm country and away from where I want to be so I backtrack and go back on the road for another couple of miles passing the marina and spot a sign going right, so back on track. Through a housing estate, is this right? Missed a turning, backtrack again and find the main cycle path further on in the scheme.

View from Dunstaffnage

A feeling of almost there but a sting in the tail, there are a couple of leg aching short climbs to test you both physically and mentally before dropping down to the shore at Dunstaffnage. A pleasant couple of miles along the coast, great views again and finally into Oban as the Mull ferry cruises past.

Oban on a previous trip

Another stunning cycle showcasing Scotland at its best, the blue skies and spring sunshine playing their part. Just over 30 miles and highly recommended.
Now where is my good lady?

Kinlocheil - Kentallen via Onich ferry

We had booked a couple of days in the Holly Tree hotel in Kentallen, recommended, before going on up to Skye. I decided to do the Fort William to Oban cycle route but in two stages as our hotel was roughly mid point. We had driven up to Fort William that day so it was around 2pm before I got started. I did not want to cycle the very busy road between Fort William and Onich and opted to follow the Sustrans advice to use the other shore. Sustrans suggests getting the Camusnagaul ferry at the Crannog restaurant but this ferry was  apparently not operating yet so I went along the Mallaig road to Kinlocheil. This road was busy but was good for cycling, flat and straight. I just made sure my bright flashing rear light was functioning. It was a beautiful sunny March afternoon and the only choice was leggings or shorts but realistically it was still a bit cold for shorts particularly in the shaded sections and just as well as a cool breeze got up for the last 10 miles.

The start of Loch Eil

The initial Kinlocheil stretch is beautiful but beware of the landfill site a couple of miles along the road as the refuse lorries I met were doing some speed on the single track road. Combined with a few forestry lorries they were the only real point of wariness.

Low tide Loch Eil

The view ahead has Ben Nevis in your sight as your first goal with stunning scenery all around as you cycle alongside Loch Eil. Plenty of grey herons looking for food. An outdoor centre on the other side on the water with 6 bright red canoes. This is not a route to rush and I was stopping regularly to take it all in as well as get a few photographs. Cycling in Scotland does not get much better than this.

Good road to the Nevis range

There were a surprising number of new built housing along this side, most looking very nice indeed. There is a sense of isolation but still only 15 miles or so to Fort William.
At the end of Loch Eil the route turns southwest with great views of Ben Nevis and the town of Fort William to enjoy. This is where the other ferry would drop you off. As you can see the water was mirror calm.

Fort William

View from the hill section

You now have Loch Lhinnie on your left all the way to the ferry. There is only one short hill section as you turn inland for a couple of miles. Nice hill views for a change and a very nice country estate house. The tide was low and the estate cattle and sheep were enjoying the marine vegetation.

Inland marsh & hills

Another few miles of road and I could see the ferry at the other side so no rush. Only one other cyclist passed me heading the other way and very few cars so very enjoyable. I stopped at the wreck of a fishing boat that would do no more sailing. Hopefully it can be scrapped in some way rather than left to become a blot on the landscape.

Fishing boat no more

Even short ferry crossings make you feel on holiday and this was no exception, £8 for cars but free for foot passengers and bikes. Another cyclist joined the ferry but we had not met on the road as he had been cycling to the south around Morvern.
I knew from past experience that they were building a wide pavement for both cyclists and pedestrians from Onich to Ballachulish. It was not quite finished but I was able to use it for almost the whole section. This is a very busy and dangerous road for cyclists. The views from the bridge were fantastic and once across I now joined the old railway line which is a walking cycle path to Kentallen and my hotel. The hotel is actually the old train station with a mooring for the passenger boats.

View to Morvern from Ballachulish

I had a great day cycling with reasonable road surfaces, probably better suited to the slightly wider tyres on my hybrid that I was using than the narrower road bike. The ride is 36 miles from Fort William or 29 if you start at Kinlocheil and even shorter once the ferry is in operation. It then makes the full Oban ride a more comfortable one section route.

Sunset Kentallen

After a shower I was enjoying a beer when the light faded and for 20 minutes it was a magnificent west coast sunset, a stunning finish to a great day.