Friday, 10 June 2016

Lochaline - Ardtornish Castle

Lochaline
Up early and a short cycle before breakfast. My plan was to go down the eastern side of Loch Aline to the ruins of Ardtornish castle.
I decided to have a cycle around the estate before heading down the dirt track alongside Loch Aline. The tide was well out and left muddy section dotted with low tide pools. 
Tides Out
The estate are filling in some of the big holes in the track but a long way to go. The MTB's suspension handles these with minimum discomfort.
It is a beautiful blue sky morning which is reflected on the water giving great views across to Lochaline. Two boats are heading out from their moorings but still a lot of craft, all shapes and sizes moored up to their orange buoys.

One of the estates holiday cottages is just here, an excellent chance of spotting an otter if you stayed in it. The number of herons along the waters edge is staggering, there must be excellent feeding for them.
I now come onto the netting repair factory but all is deserted and looking run down, maybe it has been a victim of the economic climate affecting the salmon fish farming industry.
The track comes to a sharp U bend with excellent views across the water to Lochaline village, the ferry terminal and the sand mine. There are a couple of cottages and one at least is artistic, metal sculptures abound. I particularly liked this one of the dog looking down at the boat.
Sculptured dog watches over boat
The way ahead is blocked by a rather large fence which thankfully can be opened. A police warning poster is attached re potential prosecution about the danger of dogs worrying livestock, keep them on the lead is the message.
As expected it is now open countryside with sheep and cows in the fields. Thankfully the cows are behind proper enclosures but the sheep are ambivalent about me and just lie in my path.
Ferry coming over from Mull
Stunning views are all around: The Sound of Mull; The island of Mull; the Morvern coastline. The ferry is crossing from Fishnish to Lochaline. I spend a few minutes scanning the open waters but no whales or dolphins to be seen today.
Ardtornish Castle
The ruined castle lies ahead, on a promontory, towards the shoreline as we look but I would need to leave the bike and trek across the fields, not for today. The castle has great historical significance as the home of the last Lord of the Isles, the Clan Donald and some murky doings, typical of the clan system and of Scotland's status with England.
I return the way I came. The ride this morning was around 10 miles but if you were coming from the village it would be extended by another 6 miles or so. For the really fit there is a challenging off road detour from the estate buildings heading to Loch Tearnait and beyond if you are capable.
But for me breakfast beckons and a bucket list trip to the Ardnamurchan lighthouse, yahoo.


Ardtornish - Drimnin Sound of Mull

Lochaline
My objective this morning was to cycle from the holiday cottage in the Ardtornish estate, along the single track road to Drimnin. The main stretch would give me great views across the Sound of Mull to the island itself.
Leaving the cottage my faithful MTB was bouncing along the estates dirt track, plenty of potholes so glad of the front suspension. The River Aline was gurgling gently, very low in these dry conditions, and the sun was already hot.
A quick right turn cross across the old bridge and a left takes me down a track going alongside Loch Aline itself. There are good views down the loch with Mull in the background. A nice track for about 2.5 miles saves me going on the upper main road, not that traffic is a major issue here, although see later. I keep my eyes on the shoreline as best I can, you never know it is otter habitat. There are still quite a few yachts moored up. The track is mainly flat but surprisingly muddy in places. I pass the sand mine where a tanker is being loaded. Very high quality sand is mined apparently for glassware etc. Slightly further along I pass an old mine shaft, the very cold air coming from its depths was surprising and chilling.
The quiet road ahead
The Mull ferry terminal appears and then a right turn brings the hardest uphill of the day, I was blowing hard by the time I reached the turn for Drimnin, already regretting last night's beers. 
The road is quiet but single track with passing places, too narrow even for a bike and car with safety in mind so eyes and ears alert.
The views are already superb, a great morning for a cycle albeit there is still a strong breeze in my face. Ahead I see a motor biker standing at a passing place but there are 4 bikes. In the bushes down a slope I see movement which I thought was the other bikers decamping. As it turned out they were pushing a bike up through the vegetation. It must have come off the road but nobody was hurt. I could not see any obvious reason why a biker should come off here. There were no other cars around so unlikely to be a near miss. Possibly just a lapse of concentration.

The route is fairly gently up and down, sometimes open country and sometimes through tree lined areas. There is now one long descent which is good at the time but you know you are going back up it on the reverse route.
I pass a very pretty little campsite which has the pitches all nicely split by small hedges, and with the sea views very pretty. There are 5 tents with no cars or bikes, I wonder if that is the bikers accomodation.

I stop at Clach Na Criche, a rock wall formed by a super volcano and a place of importance in the Gaelic world. Ancient funeral processions have built the small cairns. The hole in the wall good for some snaps.

I soon get my only sighting of a seal which was surprise, surprise close to the salmon fish farm. Maybe a salmon can leap out of the cage if frightened by a seal? 

There is a ruin jutting out on a small peninsula, presumably a castle or lookout point but I don't come across any signs, maybe I just missed them. 

The views of Mull are constant now and there are quite a few boats of various shapes and sizes out on the water, good to see the activity. Everything from ferries, tankers, sailing yachts with colourful sails full in the wind and small pleasure craft.
As always in this part of the country there are attractive sandy bays, ideal for a picnic or just a good rest stop.

Before I know it I have reached my destination. No way forward for vehicles and the return is by the same route.
Journey end looking to Mull
The return, apart from the views, was memorable for one big scare. I was taking a fast downhill and just on the left turn a 4x4 appeared, single track overgrown verge, nowhere to go, brakes hit very hard all round and I just squeeze past him. For lesser experienced bikers it might have ended differently.
Back at the cottage the ride is just under 30 miles on the clock with 1800 feet of ascent it was a good trip. The views are breathtaking and it is a short cycle that I fully recommend. Next time I'm here I will take the short ferry from Lochaline to Fishnish and do the same route on the Mull side.
Now ready for a walk into Gleann Dubh this afternoon which will be on my 'Desmondo's Ramblings' blog.