Speyside circuit Aviemore - Grantown

I brought the Focus road bike for this break and today decided on a circular route around Speyside. After yesterday's climb up the ski road to the funicular something a bit lower required. The circuit started in Aviemore taking in Boat of Garten, Grantown on Spey and Carrbridge.

River Spey calm early morning

An early start saw me head to Coylumbridge then take a left and head to Boat of Garten. I stopped and had an early morning look at the very calm Spey with some nice trout rings feeding, looked decent fish but no rod with me.
Onwards the road goes past the RSPB centre. No point in diverting in for a look as the Ospreys have all left for the sunnier climates of Western Africa.
It is good riding, very little traffic on the road and almost all going against me. The countryside is in great condition so I am enjoying the views, it is not a race after all.

Nethy Bridge

Next port of call is Nethy Bridge a typical small Highland village for these parts. In other words, wide roads, some old cottages, some very big newbuilds and a hotel. On the way out I stop and look at the golf course, Abernethy I think, as there is an unusual site. A par 3 hole appears to nave the tee on one side of the public road to Tomintoul and the green on the other, wow, I wonder how many cars get hit, hope the golfers have insurance.

A short way up the road I have to stop again at Abernethy Old Kirk. An impressive kirk surrounded by a graveyard. The current building is apparently from the from the 1770's but the site has had a kirk since the 1500's. A lot of history here.

If not trees farmland

Some rolling roads take me to Grantown on Spey, a great deal of old natural pine forests, the mighty River Spey and huge grey granite buildings and homes. Of course a hotel or two. Plus a few days earlier I had made a major find, Scotland's newest micro brewery. After completing my Speyside Way section from Aviemore to Grantown I had earned food so we headed to a cafe which had behind it the Two Thirsty Men brewery. A pint of their Spey IPA and I was immediately a fan. But no beer today.

Two Thirsty Men not the cafe entrance!

Now I headed west to Carrbridge. For no real reason I had got it in my mind that this was downhill but when later I studied the GPS it was the longest climbing section of the ride. I really did not need the GPS to tell me that as I was blowing a bit harder. I also had my one near miss. Off a T junction track a big pick up appeared the passenger head back fast asleep. I thought the driver had seen me but just as I went passed he moved out right at me. Last second he saw me and hit the brakes, a close one. At least he signalled an apology and looked sheepish.

Carrbridge

Carrbridge has fond family holiday memories so a quick photo slot then back on the bike for the last leg. This was mostly downhill and only for the last 4 miles did I get the heavy traffic.
I had not eaten anything so I was starting to note energy decline but mostly downhill so home for a shower and food.
Stats: 33.65 miles. Ascent 1088 ft. Time 2 hours 36min.
  

Dalwhinnie - Pitlochry

Dalwhinnie start

Well that is another route off the bucket list, it was brutal, scenic & exhilarating. I knew my body rhythms suggested I was not in the best fitness for some reason and I should have listened to my body.
I had deferred this for a couple of days because of the excessive high winds at our base in Pitlochry. But when I woke up this morning the skies were brighter and the trees were still so decision made. A quick bowl of cornflakes and off to Dalwhinnie.

Excellent track

The wind has been SSE for the last few days and it would have made more sense to go south to north, even though there is more climbing involved the wind would have helped blow me up the hills. But, rather than have my lift hanging about Dalwhinnie it was more practical to cycle it this way.
We parked at the cafe at Dalwhinnie where 2 police traffic cars and an ambulance were stopped, having brekkie, not an omen I thought I hope I don't see you later.
I followed the main road for a mile to ensure new bike was running ok, it had had a small run and all seemed fine, and then joined the National Cycle route 7, nice big stone plaque. 

Drumochter summit

The wind was already pretty strong in my face, the clouds were dark and threatening in patches, wow. 
The route mainly goes along the old A9 and was in reasonable condition for an MTB but could be a challenge for thinner tyres, lots of loose stones and as such potential punctures.

In my mind I had broken the section to the House of Bruar into 3 sections, the first being this stretch to Dalnaspidal. No doubt that this is the most scenic and rugged part of the ride. This section is mostly uphill, it is not a difficult climb but the strong wind was already affecting me, had I made a mistake? A golden eagle is gliding just below the summit to cheer me up.

Dalnaspidal & Loch Garry

There are plenty of grouse wandering about the track and I try to ignore traffic noise on the A9. There are black clouds over the hills on my right and blue skies to my left, take your pick what the day is going to bring. Temperature on my GPS shows 8.5 degrees and my hands are chilly so gloves on. A brief pause at Drumochter Pass high point, take in the view then continue on and reach Dalnaspidal after about 7.5 miles. Text time to confirm location to driver.
I was not feeling great but continued on to my next destination at the Trinafour junction. Plenty of ups and downs but nothing too strenuous, just the wind sapping the strength. Pretty rugged terrain on the right hand side, moorland all the way to Loch Rannoch.

Another text then out of the woods and the countryside is now much flatter and plainer, the big hills are mainly gone for a while. Excellent track for all bikes and good progress being made. Being lower has taken the edge of the wind for a bit.
I ride passed a small drilling rig set up, the van has 'geosonic drilling' on it, wonder what they are looking for?
At Calvine I rejoin an A road and mainly downhill to the House of Bruar for a caffeine hit and some food. Bruar is a place for the landed gentry, not sure my cycling gear quite fits in with the tweeds and cashmeres, but do I care, haha. About 21 miles so far. As I enter the car park a flat capped, cravat lady in Land Rover towing a horse box pulls out in front of me and I am the one getting a black look, it really is that type of place. Does she care?

Straight road to Ben Vrackie

Two thirds gone and the route now follows, what can be a busy back road so switch on the rear strobe. Winds have strengthened again and of course in my face.
A long straight with great views of Ben Vrackie. Then onto Blair Atholl again with good views of the estate and the scarred path up Carn Liath behind. A red squirrel jumps out in front of me racing across the road, it made it.
Last big effort is the climb through Killiecrankie, my body is just not right, I have my doubts but put it into grandpa gear and slowly make my way up the hill, success.

Blair Atholl grounds

An up and down route with more traffic and I get through Pitlochry High street unscathed to my destination.

River Tilt

Glad I did it but boy was it tougher than it should have been. When I downloaded my data my heart rate had been consistently way above my normal rate and even on the lower flatter sections it never got to normal, proof that one should listen to your body rhythms. Hopefully just a short term hit and back to normal for next ride.
Ride Stats: Distance 31.48 miles. Time 3.06 hours. Ascent 843 ft.

South Uist - Benbecula - North Uist

Typical Uist single track road.

As part of my visit to the islands I wanted to cycle the full length from Lochboisdale in South Uist to Lochmaddy in North Uist. If you want to complete the full island stretch you can start from Eriskay but as I had cycled down to there yesterday and the SSE 20 mph plus headwinds meant I that was not repeating that cycle. There is also a loop at the top of North Uist with some very attractive coastline views.

Typical scenery, scrubland, water and crofts

These islands are a place of extreme weather variations with most Atlantic storms passing through. Thankfully these winds were favourable to me for about 2/3rds of the ride providing a good tail wind which pushed the averages mph up.
I started the ride from our holiday cottage heading south before joining the only main road linking most of the island. For the most part the roads are single carriageway with passing places. When driving this means a give and take approach where you stop and let an approaching car pass as much as they let you come through. Normally there is a very high courtesy factor but from my cycling experiences over the last three years there is no doubt that the same courtesy is not as regularly applied to cyclists. I had a few issues on tight single stretches with fast oncoming traffic. Traffic coming from behind were much better, maybe my high viz strobe rear light working again.

These islands are unique with a huge amount of large and small lochs with some of the best brown trout fishing in the UK. It is also full of peaty boggy terrain rendering many lochs impossible to get to. I believe that the Outer Hebrides have 15% of the UK surface water which is staggering relative to their size. My trip is a fishing one but not today in these winds and possibly not all week, I only saw one boat out on the waters and no bank fishers during the ride.

Warning otters crossing

These islands are relatively flat with numerous small crofts and cottages dotted around but no high rise buildings. Thus the landscape has vast vistas with huge skies, fantastic sea views. Quite inspiring and humbling.

Tides Out

Riding over the causeways are always fun but poignant with the knowledge that deaths have occurred on these in winter storms. It can be a harsh environment. Plus there are the constant warnings of otters crossing but it was very low tide so no expectations of seeing them today. They are numerous but they tend to be seen with the incoming tide.

Final causeway hills at Lochmaddy in view

The tailwind pushed me on until the 22 mile mark where it became a mixture of everything. Surprisingly I hit more headwinds than expected and some of the side wind gusts were extremely challenging to keep upright particularly as my bike has a light carbon frame.

On these islands there are many churches of all denominations and linked to this many war memorials. These islands lost a lot of people particularly in the Great War and here they are well looked after and respected. It is not too long ago that everything shut down on a Sunday and even hanging out the washing to dry was a major offence. Times have changed.

 

The tide was out for most of the journey but still it provided great viewing and realising how shallow these areas are and how far out the tide goes aligned to the speed it comes in at. Don't go wandering about the sandbanks a real danger of being trapped by an incoming tide.

Lochmaddy

Finally after that very blowy last third I arrive at my destination at Lochmaddy where I will get picked up. I know super softy but that is a long enough trip in these conditions at my age. Time now for a visit to the craft centre and as all cyclists know, a reward of a slice or two of good home baking. 
Lochmaddy is where Calmac sails to Uig in Skye so I will see it again on Saturday.

Lochaline - Ardtornish Castle

Lochaline

Up early and a short cycle before breakfast. My plan was to go down the eastern side of Loch Aline to the ruins of Ardtornish castle.
I decided to have a cycle around the estate before heading down the dirt track alongside Loch Aline. The tide was well out and left muddy section dotted with low tide pools. 

Tides Out

The estate are filling in some of the big holes in the track but a long way to go. The MTB's suspension handles these with minimum discomfort.
It is a beautiful blue sky morning which is reflected on the water giving great views across to Lochaline. Two boats are heading out from their moorings but still a lot of craft, all shapes and sizes moored up to their orange buoys.

One of the estates holiday cottages is just here, an excellent chance of spotting an otter if you stayed in it. The number of herons along the waters edge is staggering, there must be excellent feeding for them.
I now come onto the netting repair factory but all is deserted and looking run down, maybe it has been a victim of the economic climate affecting the salmon fish farming industry.
The track comes to a sharp U bend with excellent views across the water to Lochaline village, the ferry terminal and the sand mine. There are a couple of cottages and one at least is artistic, metal sculptures abound. I particularly liked this one of the dog looking down at the boat.

Sculptured dog watches over boat

The way ahead is blocked by a rather large fence which thankfully can be opened. A police warning poster is attached re potential prosecution about the danger of dogs worrying livestock, keep them on the lead is the message.
As expected it is now open countryside with sheep and cows in the fields. Thankfully the cows are behind proper enclosures but the sheep are ambivalent about me and just lie in my path.

Ferry coming over from Mull

Stunning views are all around: The Sound of Mull; The island of Mull; the Morvern coastline. The ferry is crossing from Fishnish to Lochaline. I spend a few minutes scanning the open waters but no whales or dolphins to be seen today.

Ardtornish Castle

The ruined castle lies ahead, on a promontory, towards the shoreline as we look but I would need to leave the bike and trek across the fields, not for today. The castle has great historical significance as the home of the last Lord of the Isles, the Clan Donald and some murky doings, typical of the clan system and of Scotland's status with England.
I return the way I came. The ride this morning was around 10 miles but if you were coming from the village it would be extended by another 6 miles or so. For the really fit there is a challenging off road detour from the estate buildings heading to Loch Tearnait and beyond if you are capable.
But for me breakfast beckons and a bucket list trip to the Ardnamurchan lighthouse, yahoo.

Ardtornish - Drimnin Sound of Mull

Lochaline

My objective this morning was to cycle from the holiday cottage in the Ardtornish estate, along the single track road to Drimnin. The main stretch would give me great views across the Sound of Mull to the island itself.
Leaving the cottage my faithful MTB was bouncing along the estates dirt track, plenty of potholes so glad of the front suspension. The River Aline was gurgling gently, very low in these dry conditions, and the sun was already hot.
A quick right turn cross across the old bridge and a left takes me down a track going alongside Loch Aline itself. There are good views down the loch with Mull in the background. A nice track for about 2.5 miles saves me going on the upper main road, not that traffic is a major issue here, although see later. I keep my eyes on the shoreline as best I can, you never know it is otter habitat. There are still quite a few yachts moored up. The track is mainly flat but surprisingly muddy in places. I pass the sand mine where a tanker is being loaded. Very high quality sand is mined apparently for glassware etc. Slightly further along I pass an old mine shaft, the very cold air coming from its depths was surprising and chilling.

The quiet road ahead

The Mull ferry terminal appears and then a right turn brings the hardest uphill of the day, I was blowing hard by the time I reached the turn for Drimnin, already regretting last night's beers. 
The road is quiet but single track with passing places, too narrow even for a bike and car with safety in mind so eyes and ears alert.
The views are already superb, a great morning for a cycle albeit there is still a strong breeze in my face. Ahead I see a motor biker standing at a passing place but there are 4 bikes. In the bushes down a slope I see movement which I thought was the other bikers decamping. As it turned out they were pushing a bike up through the vegetation. It must have come off the road but nobody was hurt. I could not see any obvious reason why a biker should come off here. There were no other cars around so unlikely to be a near miss. Possibly just a lapse of concentration.

The route is fairly gently up and down, sometimes open country and sometimes through tree lined areas. There is now one long descent which is good at the time but you know you are going back up it on the reverse route.
I pass a very pretty little campsite which has the pitches all nicely split by small hedges, and with the sea views very pretty. There are 5 tents with no cars or bikes, I wonder if that is the bikers accomodation.

I stop at Clach Na Criche, a rock wall formed by a super volcano and a place of importance in the Gaelic world. Ancient funeral processions have built the small cairns. The hole in the wall good for some snaps.

I soon get my only sighting of a seal which was surprise, surprise close to the salmon fish farm. Maybe a salmon can leap out of the cage if frightened by a seal? 

There is a ruin jutting out on a small peninsula, presumably a castle or lookout point but I don't come across any signs, maybe I just missed them. 

The views of Mull are constant now and there are quite a few boats of various shapes and sizes out on the water, good to see the activity. Everything from ferries, tankers, sailing yachts with colourful sails full in the wind and small pleasure craft.
As always in this part of the country there are attractive sandy bays, ideal for a picnic or just a good rest stop.

Before I know it I have reached my destination. No way forward for vehicles and the return is by the same route.

Journey end looking to Mull

The return, apart from the views, was memorable for one big scare. I was taking a fast downhill and just on the left turn a 4x4 appeared, single track overgrown verge, nowhere to go, brakes hit very hard all round and I just squeeze past him. For lesser experienced bikers it might have ended differently.
Back at the cottage the ride is just under 30 miles on the clock with 1800 feet of ascent it was a good trip. The views are breathtaking and it is a short cycle that I fully recommend. Next time I'm here I will take the short ferry from Lochaline to Fishnish and do the same route on the Mull side.
Now ready for a walk into Gleann Dubh this afternoon which will be on my 'Desmondo's Ramblings' blog.

Glen Tilt...tough going

River Tilt Blair Atholl

It was day 2 of my 3 day outdoor trip to Perthshire. Yesterday I completed my hill walk and today it was the turn for my bike ride. I chose to mountain bike cycle part of Glen Tilt, starting from Blair Atholl. The weather forecast was still for 20-30mph winds but I hoped that the hills in the glen would deflect and subdue the impact of these, how wrong was I to be.
I parked at the tourist information car park in Blair Atholl, no charges for parking that I could see. The chain was looking a bit dry so put some oil on and ready to go. My rucksack seemed to weigh a ton but better on my back than the bike.

Carn Liath

I decided to take a cycle around the Blair Atholl caravan park just to get the muscles warmed up then headed up the Bridge of Tilt road towards the carpark about half a mile away.
I found the area okay but did not go into the carpark, mistake, deciding to take a tarmac road to my left, which was very much uphill riding, I was following two walkers so thinking I was on right route. After reaching the top and breathing hard, I looked around and realised that this was taking me away from the hills of Glen Tilt, what a plonker. I took a couple of photos of Carn Liath, checked the OS map and made a fast descent back to the carpark. I knew this carpark from walking last year and followed the walking track, which is not exactly made for MTB's, eventually I  reached a forest track and knew now I was on track but how did I miss it earlier? 

Leaving the woods

A couple of miles down this forest track and I was almost ko'd by walkers and the inevitable dog. On a fast downhill a woman stepped out from the trees on my left and I could she that she saw me but we were in no danger. Fine, but she made no attempt to warn her fellow elderly walkers, and dog, who were behind her and came out of the trees just as I flew past, a nasty collision just missed.
Once out of the trees the track has mainly farm fields on the right populated with lots of sheep and the River Tilt on the left with some beautiful deep gorges and running water, a stunning landscape.
As I came out into the open landscape the wind kicked in and I realised that my early optimism was clearly misplaced and the hills had not deflected the wind but created a wind tunnel, blowing from the east directly into my face.
The track was made up of loose scree and stones. I realised by my quite strenuous efforts that I was gaining height, whilst trying to keep my backside on the saddle to allow the rear tyre to grip was tough. The bike was skidding about on the surface, and in a vertical climb, with a constant headwind this was challenging to say the least.

Gaws bridge looking downriver above and upriver below

However, the scenery was outstanding but the effort of the ride meant that I was not taking as much in as I would like. Stopping to take pictures also gave me that little breather but my style is to keep going with minimal rest so these photo stops were brief.
There were an incredible amount of sheep with very young lambs on route but very little other wildlife. Indeed I never saw another person although there were some cottages around. 
The track can be walked all the way to Braemar but not for me today. This never ending wind was really demoralising my spirit and I was working very hard mentally at self motivation to keep going. 

Into the wilderness Glen Tilt

I cycle to the river side of Forest Lodge, a fine building, I think is an outdoor activity base but it is deserted as I pass by. Possibly just an Atholl Estate property for the stalking season. Probably make enough money in the shooting season to not need to open the rest of the year.
The river Tilt continued to tumble beside me, beautiful, clear, cold looking water. This is a salmon river but I doubt that many make it this far.

River Tilt

There now came the point where both body and spirit said no more. I am no youngster but I consider myself reasonably fit but this was just plain hard going, too tough. It was only later when I uploaded my GPS data that I realised I had climbed almost 2000 feet from Blair Atholl. Thats two thirds of a Munro and into that constant strong headwind, no wonder I was gubbed.

Looking back remote

I ate my sandwich, reflecting on the ride, lying on the grass, with beautiful awe inspiring, enclosing and surrounding hills. I was isolated but did not feel lonely, this is a freedom and solitude most people never experience, enjoy the moment.

2nd footbridge

As soon as I got on the the bike on the way down I was freewheeling which brought home the feeling of a fun, fast, bouncing MTB descent, particularly with the wind at my back. I returned in about a quarter of the time it took to ascend. 23 miles out and back and I can safely say that it was as tough a bike ride as I can remember. But beautiful views all the way, a fast and enjoyable descent, je ne regret rien.

Waterfall near footbridge

Ardrossan - Largs

Arran from parking area

The forecast was a great deal better today, still with strong breezy winds but only a small chance of rain. Despite the wind I decided on a bike ride, got the car loaded and drove to Ardrossan for a change of scenery. After a fortnight away over-eating and drinking this was my first cycle for 3 weeks so a reasonably flat route chosen. Depending on how it went I also had the option of getting the ferry across to Cumbrae and add another 10 miles.

The track to West Kilbride

I parked the car just outside of Ardrossan and almost got blown over by the gust of wind, wow a lot stronger here than Barassie. The views were good so hopefully a nice ride.
The winds blew from the north, right into my face, but I surprised myself with my breathing and fitness, I felt okay.
I stuck to the cycle path until West Kilbride where I joined the road, not before switching on my rear light to strobe. It might be daylight but it is powerful and since I started using it I am more aware of traffic giving me a wider berth. Moon Shield a superb light for under £30.

No issues with traffic as I got through the town and re-joined the pavement on the other side, it was bit rough going at times, loose stones, holes etc. but safer than the main road. A short while later I cut inland following the tree lined track to Hunterston House. I remember to stop and switch off the light as I had not charged it before I left, only down point with the light is you are not sure what power is in it, USB charge so no batteries to change. The wind was less severe here and I enjoyed the cycle through the woods, although again a bit rough at times for the road tyres. Hopefully no punctures.
Spring is arriving and the colour is starting to appear although these trees have a bit to go to be fully leaved.
I pass a farmer entering a field where the sheep have newly lambed. Maybe good timing as there are a few carrion crows walking about. Sadly crows have an appetite for new born lambs eyes, not nice but that's nature for you.

Coal cranes at Fairlie

There is a safe path all the way to Fairlie where I then followed the signs to go with the Ayrshire Coastal Path behind the village. This is low tide with exposed vegetation and the water some way away. However even with an MTB some of this path would be tough going, therefore dismount and a short stretch of pushing.
Back onto the main road but only for a mile or so before I can get back onto a cycle path.
This path takes you past Largs marina and follows the coast into the town. The advantage is you miss the short sharp climb at the golf course. The downside is that it is populated by people and dogs both natural hazards for cyclists. I do use a bell to be socially correct but the reactions of people are so unpredictable that you still have to slow down and take extreme care. Sometimes I think the road is actually safer for cyclists.

Cumbrae Ferries

Another near thing, at one bend a cyclist comes round the corner very fast and on the wrong side, I brake hard as I noticed he is followed by a female taking the same route and going just as fast not paying attention. A few swear words directed at them. Cyclists can give cyclists a bad name as well.
Avoided a few dogs and their owners and arrived at the ferry which was just departing. The wind was still blowing a hoolie so I cycled up to the end of the walkway and came back.  Black clouds had made an appearance overhead, rain or not? I decided to just return and save Cumbrae for a day when the elements will make it more enjoyable. I took a detour into the marina, lots of money on display here.

Largs Marina

Dodged a few more dogs, smiling owners with no idea that their out of control dogs can be a danger, then back onto the road through Fairlie. Here I have my two significant incidents of the day. Firstly a red Volvo appears right beside me whilst we are going round a corner, I could reach out and touch but I'm pressed right against a kerb hoping no potholes to twitch the bike or I will go under him. More swearing as he speeds away. Then right after at the next bend, white van man comes past but at least he gives me room but his overtaking has taken him over the middle of the road just as an articulated lorry comes up on the other side of the road, avoiding the lorry white van man dives back in to our single lane, thankfully he was just ahead of me but another impatient driver almost causing an accident. It is sad how many drivers do not respect cyclists, maybe every driver should be made to spend time as a cyclist!!

Hunterston power station 

I follow the same route back and with the tail wind make good time. Overall an enjoyable cycle with some great views. Sadly a few be aware moments that seem all too frequent these days. A round trip of 27 miles, that will do for today, now beer time.